Beginner’s Guide to Surfing in the Dominican Republic
Playa Encuentro in the Dominican Republic
Or, why you don’t have to be good at something to fall in love with it.
I’d been wanting to go on a surf and yoga retreat for years. But for a while, life didn’t allow it. My brother and I had been caring for our mom, and when she passed away in 2019, the world cracked open—and then it shut again with the pandemic. Like a lot of people, I put travel on pause.
Somewhere in the middle of the grief and the stillness, I found a place online that kept calling me back: Swell Surf Camp in the Dominican Republic. They also have a location in Bali, but something about Cabarete felt right. Not glossy, not overly curated—just right.
We finally booked in 2023. I convinced Dave to come with me. He grew up skating, had surfed once before, and was game to try. And I figured I’d just give it a shot—one lesson, maybe two.
We both left hooked.
What to Expect at Swell Surf Camp
Swell is tucked into Cabarete, a small town on the north coast of the DR. The camp itself sits just off the main street, walking distance to Kite Beach, with the best surfing a short cab ride away at Playa Encuentro. The camp handles all the logistics—you just show up.
Rooms are private with their own bathrooms. Nothing fancy, but clean, bright, and breezy. There’s A/C, but they ask you to turn it off when you’re not in the room. The common areas are open-air: an inground pool, a TV and lounge zone, a pool table, a long kitchen table for shared meals, and a small shaded lawn where yoga is offered a couple times a week.
The Rhythm of the Day
Mornings start early. Instructors drive the group to Playa Encuentro, where lessons begin on the sand before moving to the water. You’re paired with an instructor based on your level—whether you’re standing on a board for the first time or just trying to fall off less dramatically.
I had no expectations. I just wanted to see what it felt like.
And it felt amazing.
Look, I’m not great at surfing. But I love it. And the thing is—you don’t have to be good at it to fall in love with it. Swell makes it easy to try without pressure. It’s a mix of locals, solo travelers, couples, and a few families. The vibe is supportive, the energy is positive, and everyone is just there to enjoy themselves.
After the morning surf, it’s back to camp for a fresh-made breakfast. There’s time to hang, explore, nap, or go back out for a second surf session if you're feeling bold. I usually opted to stay back. Surfing is fun. Paddling out is hard. It’s a full-body workout disguised as joy.
The Town of Cabarete
Cabarete still feels local. Not overly touristy. The food? Incredible. Fresh, simple, full of flavor. Just stick to bottled or filtered water. And like anywhere—stay aware, don’t flash money or valuables, and you’ll be fine.
It’s a barefoot town. Think rustic resort meets beach casual. I didn’t wear heels once—and I didn’t miss them. Comfort is key.
On the beach, you’ll find little food shacks, fresh juice, cold drinks, friendly dogs, and a cast of local characters that make Playa Encuentro feel like a place you want to return to. And we did—for my 50th birthday.
More on that in a future Field Note.
Final Thoughts
Swell Surf Camp is one of those places that stays with you. The kind of place that reminds you what it feels like to try something new and not care how it looks. To let go of the need to be good, and just be in it.
Whether you’re grieving, celebrating, or somewhere in between—this trip was a turning point for me. A reminder that showing up is enough. And that joy often lives just past discomfort.
You can learn more about the camp at swellsurfcamp.com
